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Potato is boiled, peeled and mashed. Mixed with drained tuna, harissa, capers, parsley, salt and pepper. A warka or filo sheet is laid flat; a line of filling is spooned across one edge; a small well is pressed into the filling; a whole raw egg is cracked into the well; the sheet is folded and rolled into a cigar. Fried seam-down immediately in moderately hot oil, the egg cooks inside as the pastry turns crisp. Eaten hot with lemon and harissa.
A short pastry of plain flour, butter, margarine (the mix gives Nigerian pies their distinctive texture, flakier than all-butter, sturdier than all-margarine), a pinch of baking powder, salt and cold water is made and rested. The filling: minced beef browned with onion, garlic, curry powder, thyme and a stock cube, then a small dice of carrot and potato added and cooked through with a splash of stock and a touch of cornflour to give a thick gravy. Pastry rolls out 4 mm thick, cuts into 15 cm rounds; filling goes on half; egg-wash glues; crimp; egg-wash on top. Bake at 200°C 30-35 minutes until deep gold.
These are the little salt-cod fritters you'd order at a marble counter in Lisbon, sitting with a glass of vinho verde while the bartender slides a plate across with no ceremony. The recipe itself is simple, dry mashed potato through flaked bacalhau with onion, garlic, parsley and egg, then a brief fry, but it does start the day before because the salt cod wants 24 to 36 hours of cold water soaks to draw the salt out. That step is the one thing you cannot shortcut. Once the cod is desalted, everything else is an afternoon's work: simmer the cod, flake it through warm potato, shape into the three-sided football "quenelles" that are the Portuguese signature, and fry until amber. Eat them warm with a wedge of lemon and a dish of piri-piri on the side.