Briouat Bil Lahm (Meat Briouats)

Briouat Bil Lahm (Meat Briouats)

Onion is softened slowly in olive oil 15 minutes. Lamb mince browns with the onion; ras-el-hanout, cumin, cinnamon, salt and pepper season. Stock or a splash of water; simmered for 8-10 minutes till dry-fragrant. Off heat: parsley, coriander, beaten egg, finely chopped preserved lemon. Left to cool. Warka strips lay flat; a teaspoon of filling at one end; flag-folded up the strip into a triangle. Sealed with egg-wash. Deep-fried for 3 minutes till deep gold.

Snacks 55 minutes Serves18
Jiaozi

Jiaozi

A hot-water dough - flour mixed with water (just-boiled) - for a tender, slightly stretchy wrapper that doesn't dry out. The filling is the classic family recipe: minced pork and finely chopped Chinese chives bound with soy, sesame oil, ginger and shaoxing wine. Each dumpling rolled thin, filled with a generous teaspoon, pleated along one edge, sealed and shaped. Boiled in batches, with the "three-cup" trick of adding cold water between waves to stop the wrappers blistering. Served with a sharp black vinegar and chilli dipping sauce.

Snacks 1 hour 12 minutes Serves4
Martabak Telur

Martabak Telur

A simple flour-water-oil dough rests for 1 hour (gluten relaxes; will roll paper-thin). Filling: beef mince cooks with shallot, garlic, ginger, curry-leaf, ground spices till dry and aromatic; cools; mixes with beaten eggs, spring onion and chopped coriander just before frying. Dough divides; each portion stretches paper-thin like a strudel; filling spoons in the centre; the edges fold over to make a flat square parcel; pan-fries for 3 minutes per side. Cuts in quarters; eats with chilli-pickle sauce.

Snacks 1 hour 55 minutes Serves4
Pork Pie

Pork Pie

Pork shoulder (uncured, fatty) and a small amount of bacon are chopped into 5 mm dice (not minced, the texture is key). Mixed with white pepper, mace, sage, salt and a touch of anchovy paste for umami. The hot-water-crust pastry: flour is mixed with hot water-and-lard mixture, kneaded warm into a pliable dough. Two-thirds of the dough lines a tall round tin (or is moulded freestanding around a glass jar); the filling is packed in tight; a lid of remaining dough is laid over the top with a 1 cm steam hole punched. Baked at 200°C for 30 min, then 160°C for another 60-75 min. Left to cool. A rich pork stock (made from trotters or with gelatin sheets) is poured through the steam hole while the pie is still warm. Refrigerated overnight to set the jelly. Sliced and eaten cold.

Snacks 3 hours 15 minutes Serves6
Takoyaki

Takoyaki

A thin batter is whisked from plain flour, dashi (Japanese stock), eggs, a touch of soy and mirin, salt, like a thin pancake batter. The takoyaki pan (cast-iron or non-stick with half-spherical dimples) heats; each dimple oils with vegetable oil. Batter fills each dimple plus the connecting flat surface (overflow is intentional). A small piece of pre-cooked octopus, a pinch of pickled red ginger, a few cubes of tempura crumbs (tenkasu) and a sprinkle of spring onion drop into each dimple. As the bottom sets, a sharp wooden skewer rotates each ball: scrape the overflow from around each, fold it into the bottom, twist 90° to expose the wet top, allow it to set, twist another 90°, eventually achieving a complete sphere. Cooked until golden all around. The balls are plated and drizzled with takoyaki sauce and mayo, then scattered with bonito flakes and aonori.

Snacks 45 minutes Serves4