Atchara

Atchara

Green papaya is peeled, seeded and shredded on a coarse grater. Carrot, ginger, garlic, red pepper, onion and raisins are all prepared in matching shreds. The vegetables are salted and rested for 1 hour to draw water; rinsed and squeezed dry. A syrup of cane vinegar, sugar and whole peppercorns simmers for 5 minutes. Hot syrup is poured over the vegetables in a sterilised jar. The jar is sealed, cooled and refrigerated overnight before eating. Improves over the following week.

Sides 1 hour 40 minutes Serves1
Kimchi (Cabbage)

Kimchi (Cabbage)

Napa cabbage quarters and salts in heavy salt water 4 hours; rinses well; drains. A sweet rice-flour porridge cooks briefly and cools. Aromatic paste: garlic, ginger, fish sauce, onion, apple/pear, gochugaru, sugar, pulses smooth, mixes with porridge. Daikon and carrot julienne fine; spring onion slices. Everything tosses with the paste. Cabbage stuffs leaf-by-leaf with the spiced mix. Packs tight in a jar. Ferments at room temperature 1-3 days, then refrigerates.

Sides 5 hours 5 minutes Serves1
Kinpira Gobo

Kinpira Gobo

Burdock root (gobo, long thin brown root sold at Japanese / Korean / well-stocked Asian shops; if unavailable, substitute with parsnip + an extra dash of dashi for the earthy depth) is scrubbed clean, julienned into matchsticks, then soaked briefly in vinegared water to prevent oxidation. Carrots julienne to similar matchsticks. Sesame oil heats; dried red chilli flakes (or one small chilli sliced) infuses 30 seconds; the drained gobo goes in and stir-fries for 3 minutes; carrot joins; everything tosses 2 more minutes. A sauce of soy, mirin, sugar and a splash of sake pours in; reduces for 4-5 minutes until the liquid is gone and the vegetables are glazed. Finished with sesame seeds and a drizzle of sesame oil.

Sides 37 minutes Serves4
Lentejas Chilenas

Lentejas Chilenas

A Chilean lentil stew, the kind of one-pot that turns up at any Sunday lunch through autumn and winter. You render smoked bacon in a heavy pot until the fat runs clear, then soften onion, garlic and carrot in the rendered bacon fat. Tomato and a generous scatter of dried oregano build the base. Green or brown lentils go in with stock and simmer for forty-five minutes until tender. Potato chunks join for the last twenty minutes. A splash of red wine vinegar at the end brightens the whole stew and pushes it from heavy to balanced. Eaten with crusty bread, a chopped salad on the side, and a glass of red.

Sides 1 hour 30 minutes Serves4