Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli pulao is Afghanistan's national dish, the centrepiece of every wedding, Eid and important Friday lunch: a layered pilaf of long-grain rice, slow-braised lamb, sweet carrot strands and butter-plumped raisins, all steam-finished together in one pot. You brown lamb shoulder hard, then braise it in spiced stock until the meat slips off the bone (that stock becomes the rice's cooking liquid). Carrots cut into matchsticks fry slowly in butter and sugar until they are golden and glassy. Raisins plump in butter. The rice parboils, then layers in the pot: lamb at the bottom, rice piled on top in a dome, drizzles of stock through the dome, lid clamped on tight. Twenty-five minutes of steam-cook and the rice emerges grain-separate and fragrant, ready to mound onto a platter with the carrots and raisins scattered across the top.

Afghanistan 2 hours 30 minutes Serves6
Mathloutha

Mathloutha

The Saudi gathering platter built for the night when one cut of meat isn't enough. Three proteins share the same pot: lamb shoulder and beef chunks go in first with a kabsa-spiced tomato base for ninety minutes of slow simmer until they're meltingly tender, then chicken pieces drop in for the last thirty-five minutes (their cook time is shorter, so they go in later). The strained meat broth, deeply spiced from everything that has braised in it, becomes the cooking liquid for basmati scented with saffron and dried lime. At the end you arrange all three meats on top of the rice in the same platter and bring the whole thing to the centre of the table. The kind of dish you make for a wedding lunch, an Eid gathering, or the night the extended family arrives unannounced.

Arabian 3 hours Serves8
Tray-Baked Kibbeh

Tray-Baked Kibbeh

Smooth bulgur softened in hot water, then drained dry. Onion blitzed with baharat, salt and a splash of water to a slurry. Beef mince added and pulsed; bulgur folded through last so its grains stay intact rather than dissolving into the paste. The mixture is pressed into an oiled tin, smoothed flat, then scored into 5 cm diamonds with a sharp knife. Each diamond gets a small handful of pine nuts pressed onto its surface, plus a brush of olive oil. The tin bakes hot until the surface darkens and the inside firms up. Cut along the score lines, lift the diamonds out, serve with tahini sauce and a chopped salad.

Israel 1 hour 10 minutes Serves4