Polvo à Lagareiro
Polvo à Lagareiro is the dish the olive-press workers (the lagareiros) ate at the press during the harvest, and it is still glorious: tender octopus and small smashed potatoes baked together under a generous slick of olive oil. You simmer a whole octopus for an hour with onion and bay until you can pierce a thick part of the tentacle with a knife and feel no resistance. The potatoes parboil, then get punched gently with a wooden spoon so they crack but stay whole. Octopus and potatoes go into a wide oven dish, doused with olive oil, garlic, paprika and bay, and roast hard for 25 minutes so the edges char. The olive oil at the end is not a garnish but the dish itself, and it wants to be the best you have.