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Yi mein (e-fu) are pre-fried Cantonese egg noodles sold as flat round cakes; they soften almost instantly in hot water and pick up sauce like a sponge. Stir-fried over high heat with shiitake mushrooms and ginger; finished with garlic chives, soy and a quick splash of shaoxing. The noodles are tossed gently - never cut, never broken - and served piled high in a wide bowl. If you can't find yi mein, fresh thin egg noodles work; the symbolism stays intact.
On Thai menus this is often called ‘pad nam mun hoy’, which means fried with oyster sauce. There are many versions of Thai oyster sauce curries, but this beef version is right up there when it comes to popularity. Stir-fried beef in oyster sauce usually also comes served with mushrooms and my favourite variety for this recipe are straw mushrooms, but you could use any type you can find, wild mushrooms work really well. Serve with a hot bowl of jasmine rice.