Brown Stew Shrimp and Sweet Potato Grits

Brown Stew Shrimp and Sweet Potato Grits

A Caribbean-Southern crossover that works because both traditions cook in a similar register: butter, peppers, alliums, slow heat, savoury depth. The brown stew base on top of the dish is Jamaican, bell peppers, carrot, Scotch bonnet, ginger, browning sauce, that mahogany-coloured gravy with the unmistakable allspice-and-thyme signature, and the bed underneath is from Lowcountry Charleston, where sweet potato grits enriched with butter, half-and-half and gouda are a long-running modern Southern restaurant standard. The shrimp themselves are quick-cooked and sweet, picking up the brown stew sauce. Two textures stacked: silky-rich grits, brothy stew on top with bite from the diced peppers and carrot. Smell is sweet-onion-and-browning-sugar over the corn-sweet base of the grits. Not difficult but it's two pans running at once, so timing matters; the grits hold on a low warm setting while the shrimp cook quickly. A modern fusion rather than a traditional dish, popularised by Black American chefs in the 2010s exploring the points of overlap between Lowcountry and Caribbean cookery.

Jamaican 1 hour Serves4
Fish Pie

Fish Pie

The British family classic that turns up on a kitchen table on a cold Tuesday night, the one fish dish that even children who hate fish will eat. You poach a mix of fish (cod, smoked haddock, salmon, prawns) briefly in milk - just enough to set the flesh - then strain the milk off and turn it into a parsley-and-cheddar béchamel. The fish goes into a deep dish, the béchamel pours over to bind, and a thick layer of cheddar mash piles on top in rough peaks that catch and crisp in the oven. Bake until the top is golden and the sauce bubbles up around the edges. Eaten with peas or buttered greens, a glass of cold white wine, the kind of meal that turns the evening domestic in the best way.

British 1 hour 5 minutes Serves4-6
Mala Dry-Pot (Ganguo)

Mala Dry-Pot (Ganguo)

Ganguo, literally "dry pot", is the dry sister of hotpot. Where hotpot is a communal soup simmered at the table, dry pot is a wok composition: each ingredient pre-cooked separately, then everything tossed together at the last moment in a fragrant mala sauce based on Pixian doubanjiang, fermented black beans and chilli oil. The result lands somewhere between a stir-fry, a casserole and a giant heap of bar snacks. The dish is usually credited to Chongqing in the 1990s and exploded into nationwide popularity in the 2000s; it now anchors the menu of countless ganguo restaurants where you point at ingredients on a fridge and they appear minutes later in a single-handled wok at your table. Difficulty for a home cook is low if you accept the rhythm: blanch the vegetables, sear the proteins, then build the final dish from already-cooked components. The trick is restraint with the sauce, generous heat under the wok, and the willingness to commit to a long ingredient list. The recipe is endlessly flexible: lotus root, potato, cauliflower, mushrooms, squid, chicken wings, beef, fish balls, tofu skin, whatever you have, in any combination, totalling 1-1 ½ kg.

Chinese 50 minutes Serves4
Manhattan Seafood Chowder

Manhattan Seafood Chowder

New York's tomato-based answer to New England's milk-and-cream chowder, and the source of a regional argument that has been going on for a hundred years. You start by softening bacon with onion, celery and garlic in butter, then add potatoes, thyme and fish stock and let them simmer until the potatoes are tender. The clams go in next under a lid for a few minutes until they open; you pull most of them out of their shells (keeping a few intact for the look of it) and strain the liquor back into the pot. Then tomato purée, chopped tomatoes, cod and prawns, and a final low simmer of just three minutes so the seafood stays tender. A generous scatter of flat-leaf parsley at the end lifts the lot. Serve with crusty bread to mop the brothy red sauce, and ignore anyone from Boston who tells you it's not a chowder.

American 45 minutes Serves4
Sichuan Hot Pot

Sichuan Hot Pot

Two pots if you have them: a spicy red broth and a clear chicken broth. The red broth fries doubanjiang and chilli bean paste in beef tallow, adds Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies, star anise, cassia, bay, ginger and garlic, then stock; simmers for 30 minutes. Diners cook their own ingredients in the simmering pot and dip in a small bowl of sesame oil + chopped garlic + coriander. The mala (numbing-hot) sensation comes from green Sichuan peppercorns + dried chilli together.

Chinese 1 hour 30 minutes Serves4-6