In season

May produce

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Bobotie

Bobotie

Bread is soaked in milk; mince is browned with onions; curry powder, turmeric and Cape Malay spices bloom. Apricot jam, mango chutney, vinegar and lemon balance the spice with sweet-sour notes. Raisins, toasted almonds and the soaked bread are folded through. The mixture is pressed into a baking dish; eggs are whisked with the leftover milk and poured over; bay leaves are stuck into the surface; the lot is baked until the topping is just-set with a faint wobble.

South African 1 hour 25 minutes Serves6
Briouat Bil Lahm (Meat Briouats)

Briouat Bil Lahm (Meat Briouats)

Onion is softened slowly in olive oil 15 minutes. Lamb mince browns with the onion; ras-el-hanout, cumin, cinnamon, salt and pepper season. Stock or a splash of water; simmered for 8-10 minutes till dry-fragrant. Off heat: parsley, coriander, beaten egg, finely chopped preserved lemon. Left to cool. Warka strips lay flat; a teaspoon of filling at one end; flag-folded up the strip into a triangle. Sealed with egg-wash. Deep-fried for 3 minutes till deep gold.

Snacks 55 minutes Serves18
Chicken Karahi

Chicken Karahi

A whole chicken is jointed into 8 bone-in pieces (or 8 thighs). Oil heats in a wide karahi or wok; chicken sears on all sides for colour. Crushed ginger and garlic go in for 1 minute. Halved tomatoes (yes, half-tomatoes, not chopped) tumble in; the lid clamps on; the chicken steam-cooks for 20 minutes in the tomato juices. The lid lifts; the tomato skins come off; the sauce reduces to a thick deep-orange masala. Whole green chillies, freshly crushed black pepper, ground cumin and a dollop of yogurt stir in. Coriander and slivered ginger finish.

Pakistani 1 hour Serves4
Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons

Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons

Chicken pieces are rubbed with a spice paste of garlic, ginger, saffron, turmeric, paprika, cumin, salt and olive oil; rest for 30 minutes. Onion sweats slowly in olive oil in a heavy tagine or casserole; the chicken nestles in skin-side-up; just enough water goes in to come halfway up the chicken. Lid on; gentle simmer for 50 minutes. Preserved lemon strips and green olives go in for the last 10 minutes. Off heat, scattered with fresh coriander and parsley.

North African 1 hour 35 minutes Serves4
Doro Wat

Doro Wat

Ethiopia's national dish, the spiced chicken stew that turns up at every wedding, Easter feast and Christmas table, and the one dish a cook is judged on. The foundation is the onion - you cook it down slowly for nearly an hour into a deep dark base, and this is the step that decides whether the wat is great or merely acceptable. Berbere (the Ethiopian spice blend of chilli, fenugreek, ginger and a dozen others) and niter kibbeh (spiced clarified butter, the dish's defining fat) fold in. Chicken thighs and legs simmer in the deep red sauce, and hard-boiled eggs join late, scored with a knife so they take on the colour and the flavour. Eaten communally from a single platter, with injera flatbread torn into pieces to scoop the stew. No cutlery, no individual plates, hands clean before the meal.

Ethiopian 2 hours Serves4-6
Haleem

Haleem

Cracked wheat (daleya), pearl barley, chana dal, masoor dal, moong dal and urad dal soak overnight together. Mutton on the bone (or beef shin) simmers separately with ginger-garlic paste, ground spices, onion and salt for 2 hours until tender. The drained grains and lentils join; everything simmers 2 more hours, beating periodically with a wooden masher (or blitzing in batches with a stick blender) until the meat strands break apart and integrate with the grain. The base goes intensely smooth, almost the texture of porridge. Off heat, fried onions, ghee-and-cumin tarka, julienned ginger, lemon, chilli and herbs finish each bowl.

Pakistani 10 hours 30 minutes Serves6
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
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