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May produce

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Cataplana de Marisco

A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.

Portuguese 55 minutes Serves4

Crawfish Étouffée

A Louisiana classic, the dish whose name means "smothered" in French, and that's exactly what's happening at the table: tender crawfish tails smothered in a rich gravy spooned over white rice. You start with a blond roux (butter and flour cooked just to the colour of peanut butter, lighter than gumbo's nearly-burnt mahogany), then soften the Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper in it until everything goes glossy. Tomato paste, Cajun spice and stock loosen the mixture, and the lot simmers down to a thick velvety gravy. Crawfish tails (or prawns if you can't find them) go in near the end and cook just briefly so they stay tender rather than turning rubbery. Spring onion and parsley scatter over at the finish. Ladled over white rice in a bowl, with crusty bread and a glass of cold beer alongside.

Cajun 1 hour Serves4

Paella de Mariscos

A sofrito of onion, garlic and tomato is built in the paella pan, then bomba rice goes in and absorbs warm fish stock with saffron. Squid and white fish go in early; prawns, mussels and clams are nestled in for the last 10 minutes so they steam open without overcooking.

Spanish 55 minutes Serves6

Pancit Canton

Aromatics fry, then chicken and prawns sauté fast. Vegetables and Chinese sausage join. The noodles soak briefly to soften, then go in the wok with sauce and stock to absorb everything in 5 minutes. Lemon or kalamansi at the table.

Filipino 35 minutes Serves4-6

Rissóis de Camarão

A boiled water-butter-flour dough rolls thin; a thick shrimp béchamel goes on top; folded into half-moons, sealed, dipped in egg, rolled in breadcrumbs, fried. Mozambican home cooks make these in batches of fifty and freeze them. The dough is forgiving as long as you let it rest.

Sides 1 hour 55 minutes Serves6

Shrimp Creole

The trinity (onion, celery, green pepper) softens in butter; garlic, Creole seasoning and herbs join. Tomato paste deepens; chopped tomatoes and stock loosen; the lot simmers for 20 minutes into a thick sauce. Prawns drop in at the end and cook for 3 minutes, pink and just-set. Hot sauce, lemon and parsley to finish.

Creole 50 minutes Serves4

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