Bebinca
Goa's most-famous dessert: a layered coconut and egg-yolk cake, grilled one thin layer at a time so each disc has its own caramelised crust. The Christmas-table centrepiece of Goan Catholic homes.
Overview
A single batter is made from coconut milk, egg yolks, plain flour, sugar and nutmeg. The bebinca is built in a small round dish layer by layer: a ladle of batter, ghee brushed on top, grilled until the surface is dark brown, then another ladle of batter, ghee, grill, repeat. Each layer is paper-thin; the finished cake has 16-20 visible layers when sliced. Patient work but the technique is simple. Tastes of coconut, nutmeg and gentle caramel.
Ingredients
- 12 egg yolks (large)
- 400 ml coconut milk (full-fat, well-shaken)
- 200 g plain flour
- 350 g caster sugar
- ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
- A pinch of salt
- 250 g ghee (melted; you'll need a brushable bowl of it nearby)
Equipment
- A 20 cm round cake tin (deep enough for 8 cm of layers; a small cake tin is correct)
- A pastry brush
- An oven with a grill function
Method
Stage 1 - Make the batter
- Whisk the egg yolks gently in a large bowl until smooth (don't aerate).
- Add the coconut milk and whisk again.
- Sift the flour and salt over and whisk until completely smooth, no lumps.
- Add the sugar, nutmeg and cardamom; whisk to dissolve.
- Strain the batter through a sieve into a second bowl (this removes any cooked-egg specks and ensures a smooth pour).
- Rest the batter for 15 minutes.
Stage 2 - Set up the grill
- Heat the oven grill on its highest setting; place the rack one slot down from the top.
Stage 3 - First layer
- Brush the cake tin generously with melted ghee.
- Pour in 60-80 ml of batter (enough to coat the base in a thin layer, no more).
- Place under the grill for 4-6 minutes, watching closely, until the surface is dark golden brown (almost burnt at the edges; a deep caramel colour overall).
Stage 4 - Repeat
- Lift the tin out (use a long oven glove).
- Brush the top of the cooked layer generously with melted ghee.
- Pour in another 60-80 ml of batter on top (it will sit on the cooked layer below).
- Return to the grill for 4-6 minutes.
- Repeat: ghee, batter, grill, ghee, batter, grill, working through all the batter.
- You should end up with 16-20 layers depending on layer thickness.
Stage 5 - Final layer
- The top layer goes a shade darker than the others (you can hold this one under the grill for 7-8 minutes for a deep mahogany finish).
- Brush a final layer of ghee over the top while it's still hot.
Stage 6 - Cool and serve
- Cool in the tin for 30 minutes at room temperature.
- Run a thin knife around the edge.
- Invert onto a board, then flip back the right way up.
- Slice into thin wedges or fingers to show the layers.
- Serve at room temperature.
Notes
- Layer thickness matters: Each layer should be paper-thin. Pouring too much batter at once gives a cake that's only 6-8 layers; the look is wrong and so is the texture.
- Ghee between every layer: Skimping makes the layers fuse. Brush every layer thoroughly.
- The top can be very dark: Bebinca is meant to look almost-burnt on top. The deep caramelisation is the dish.
Storage
- Wrap in foil and store at room temperature up to 5 days; the flavour deepens.
- Refrigerate up to 2 weeks; bring back to room temperature before serving.
- Doesn't freeze well (the texture suffers).
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