In season

May produce

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Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani

Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani

Bone-in mutton (or lamb) marinates for 4 hours in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, deep-fried onion (birista), garam masala, chilli and saffron. Basmati rice par-boils for 4 minutes with whole spices to 70% done. Half the rice layers on top of the marinated mutton at the bottom of a heavy pot; saffron milk, mint, more birista and ghee drizzle on top; the rest of the rice on top of that. Sealed (cover + dough or foil tight), cooked on the lowest heat 1 hour. The meat cooks from raw inside the steaming rice. Opened at the table.

Indian 6 hours Serves6
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Sindhi Biryani

Sindhi Biryani

Mutton on the bone marinates for 2 hours in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, ground spices (red chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, garam masala), mint, coriander and salt. Sliced onions fry slowly in oil to deep gold, then crispy, and drain on paper (some go in the marinade, some on top of the biryani). The marinated mutton browns; tomatoes go in; the meat braises for 45 minutes until tender. Basmati rice parboils with whole spices and salt to 70% done; drains. The layering: mutton at bottom, half the rice, fried onions and prunes and green chillies, the remaining rice, more onions, saffron-milk and ghee on top. Dum cook for 25 minutes sealed.

Pakistani 4 hours 5 minutes Serves6