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Moussaka

Aubergines and potatoes pan-fry or roast separately. Lamb mince cooks down with onion, garlic, cinnamon and tomato into a rich ragù. The layers go into a deep dish, topped with a cheese-rich béchamel that sets golden in the oven.

Greek 2 hours Serves6-8

Shepherd's Pie

The lamb cousin of cottage pie, and the original of the two (cottage pie came later as a beef variant when lamb was harder to find). You brown lamb mince with onion, carrot and celery, then simmer with stock, tomato purée, Worcestershire and rosemary until the gravy is thick enough to hold a spoon upright. Top with garlic-butter mash piled in rough peaks that catch and crisp in the oven, and bake until the surface is deep gold. The lamb gives it a heavier, more savoury character than cottage pie's beef. That's what marks it as shepherd's rather than cottage. Eaten with peas, a spoonful of mint sauce on the side if you're being traditional, and a glass of bitter or a strong red.

British 1 hour 25 minutes Serves4-6

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Moussaka

Shepherd's Pie