Nan E Barbari
Iran's morning flatbread: a long ridged loaf with a glossy crackle, scattered with sesame and nigella, baked on a hot stone.
Overview
A medium-hydration yeasted dough (about 65% hydration) of bread flour, yeast, salt, water and a small amount of oil rises for 1 hour. Divides into 2; each piece shapes into a long oval (about 35 cm x 15 cm) and proofs for 30 minutes. The roomal glaze cooks separately: flour-and-water-and-baking-soda whisks and brings to a boil, it sets into a glossy paste. Each loaf gets brushed all over with the warm glaze; deep parallel ridges press in with fingertips (4-5 ridges per loaf running lengthwise); sprinkled with sesame and nigella seeds. Slides onto a hot stone (or upside-down baking tray) preheated to maximum; bakes for 12-15 minutes until deep gold.
Ingredients
Dough
- 600 g strong white bread flour
- 1 sachet (7 g) fast-action yeast
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon caster sugar
- 400 ml warm water
- 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
Roomal glaze
- 250 ml water
- 1 tablespoon plain flour
- ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
- ½ teaspoon caster sugar
Topping
- 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds
- 1 tablespoon black sesame seeds (or nigella seeds)
Method
Stage 1 - Dough
- Whisk flour, yeast, salt and sugar in a wide bowl.
- Add warm water and oil; mix to a soft slightly sticky dough.
- Knead 10 minutes by hand (or 7 minutes in a stand mixer) until smooth and elastic.
- Cover; rise 1 hour until doubled.
Stage 2 - Roomal glaze
- While the dough rises, in a small saucepan whisk flour with 250 ml cold water until smooth.
- Add baking soda and sugar.
- Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly - the mixture thickens to a thin runny paste over about 3 minutes.
- Off heat; cool to lukewarm.
- (If it gets too thick on standing, whisk in a tablespoon of water.)
Stage 3 - Shape
- Knock back the dough; divide into 2 equal pieces.
- Roll each piece into a ball.
- Cover; rest 10 minutes.
- On a lightly floured surface, shape each ball into a long oval, about 35 cm x 15 cm, by stretching and patting (NOT rolling - barbari should have some air retained).
Stage 4 - Proof
- Place each shaped loaf on a piece of baking paper.
- Cover loosely with a tea towel; proof 25-30 minutes (puffy but not doubled).
Stage 5 - Heat oven
- Heat oven to maximum (260°C / 240°C fan or higher).
- Place a baking stone (or heavy upside-down baking tray) on the upper-middle rack to preheat 30 minutes.
Stage 6 - Glaze and ridge
- Working with one loaf at a time on the paper:
- Brush the entire top surface generously with the lukewarm roomal glaze.
- With fingertips (oiled if sticky), press 4-5 deep parallel ridges running lengthwise along the loaf - really push down to leave clear grooves about 1 cm deep.
- Sprinkle generously with sesame seeds and nigella seeds.
Stage 7 - Bake
- Slide the loaf (with paper) onto the hot stone.
- Bake 12-15 minutes until deep golden brown, the ridges deeply set, the crust glossy and crackled.
- Slide off the stone onto a wire rack.
Stage 8 - Serve
- Eat warm, ideally within 30 minutes of baking.
- Traditional Persian breakfast: tear off pieces, eat with feta cheese, walnuts, fresh herbs and black tea.
Notes
- The roomal glaze: This is what gives barbari its distinctive glossy crackled crust. Plain water-brush gives a dull-looking bread. The cooked flour-and-soda paste is essential.
- Maximum oven heat: Barbari needs FIERCE heat to develop the crust and ridges. Maximum oven temperature; preheated stone or tray; no compromise.
- Deep ridges: Shallow ridges flatten out during baking. Press hard, all the way to 1 cm depth. The hot oven sets the shape immediately.
Storage
- Best within 4 hours of baking.
- Refrigerate 2 days in a paper bag; refresh in a hot oven 4 minutes.
- Freeze cooked 2 months; reheat from frozen at 200°C 6 minutes.
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