Lamb Nihari

Ingredients

Spice mix (nihari masala - make ahead or buy ready)

• 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 6 green cardamom pods
• 2 black cardamom pods
• 6 cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick (5 cm)
• 4 bay leaves
• 2 dried red chillies
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg (grated)
• 1 teaspoon mace (or ½ teaspoon ground)
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• ½ teaspoon ground long pepper (or extra black pepper)

Meat and base

• 1.2 kg lamb shanks (4 small shanks, OR bone-in lamb shoulder, cut into 5 cm chunks)
• 4 tablespoons mustard oil (Pakistani-style; if unavailable use sunflower)
• 4 tablespoons ghee
• 2 onions (large, sliced)
• 3 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste
• 2 teaspoons Kashmiri red chilli powder
• 1 teaspoon ordinary chilli powder
• 1 ½ teaspoons ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons salt (more to taste)
• 2 litres water

Thickening slurry

• 4 tablespoons wheat flour (atta or plain)
• 250 ml cold water (to mix)

Tarka

• 4 tablespoons ghee
• 1 onion (large, sliced very thin; fried deep brown)
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Garnish

• 4 cm fresh ginger (matchsticks)
• 3 green chillies (sliced)
• Small bunch coriander (chopped)
• 1 lemon (cut into wedges)
• Naan (or paratha to serve)

Method

Stage 1 - Toast and grind the nihari masala

1. In a dry pan, toast fennel, peppercorns, coriander, cumin, cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and dried chillies over medium heat 3 minutes until fragrant.
2. Cool; transfer to a spice grinder.
3. Add nutmeg, mace, ground ginger and long pepper.
4. Grind to a fine powder.
5. (Store extra in a sealed jar; keeps 3 months.)

Stage 2 - Brown the lamb

1. Heat mustard oil and ghee together in a large heavy pot over medium-high.
2. Add the lamb shanks; brown 5 minutes per side until deep colour. Lift to a plate.

Stage 3 - Onion and masala

1. Reduce heat to medium.
2. Add sliced onions; cook 10 minutes until deep gold.
3. Add ginger-garlic paste; cook 1 minute.
4. Add 2 tablespoons of the nihari masala, Kashmiri chilli, ordinary chilli, turmeric and salt.
5. Cook 30 seconds with a splash of water (so the spices don't burn).

Stage 4 - Braise

1. Return the lamb and any juices to the pot.
2. Add 2 litres of water.
3. Bring to a boil; skim.
4. Reduce to the lowest simmer; cover tightly.
5. Stovetop: Cook 4 hours, turning the meat once at the 2-hour mark.
6. Pressure cooker: Cook on high 1 hour 15 minutes; natural release.
7. The lamb should be falling-apart tender; the broth deep mahogany; the spices fully integrated.

Stage 5 - Thicken with the slurry

1. Lift the lamb pieces onto a plate (cover to keep warm).
2. Strain the broth into a clean pot (discard the whole-spice debris; the broth should be smooth).
3. Whisk the wheat flour into 250 ml cold water until smooth (no lumps).
4. Whisk a ladleful of warm broth into the slurry to temper.
5. Pour the slurry into the broth, whisking continuously.
6. Bring to a low simmer; cook 8-10 minutes, whisking, until the broth thickens to a glossy, slightly velvety consistency - like single cream.

Stage 6 - Return the meat

1. Return the lamb pieces to the thickened broth.
2. Simmer gently 15-20 minutes.
3. Taste; adjust salt.

Stage 7 - Tarka

1. Heat the ghee in a small pan.
2. Add cumin seeds; sizzle 15 seconds.
3. Off heat; stir in the deep-fried golden onions.
4. Pour the tarka over the nihari pot - listen for the sizzle.

Stage 8 - Rest and serve

1. Cover; rest 10 minutes.
2. Ladle into bowls; ensure each bowl has a piece of meat and plenty of broth.
3. At the table: scatter ginger matchsticks, green chilli, coriander.
4. Squeeze of lemon.
5. Eat with hot naan or paratha - tear, dip, scoop the meat off the bone.