Refried Beans

Ingredients

Bean base

• 400 g dried pinto beans (or borlotti / cranberry beans as substitute)
• Cold water (for soaking)
• 2 litres water (for cooking)
• 1 onion (large, halved)
• 6 garlic cloves (whole, peeled)
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 sprigs fresh epazote (optional, traditional - sold dried at Mexican shops; an aromatic herb)
• 1 pork bone, smoked ham hock, or 100 g bacon (optional; vegetarians use 1 tablespoon extra salt)
• 1 ½ teaspoons salt (added in the last 30 minutes)

Refry stage

• 80 g lard (or rendered bacon fat, or sunflower oil)
• 1 onion (large, finely diced)
• 4 garlic cloves (finely diced)
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 jalapeño (small, optional, finely chopped)
• salt
• pepper

To finish

• 80 g cotija cheese (or queso fresco, crumbled - or feta as a substitute)
• 3 tablespoons fresh coriander (chopped)
• 1 jalapeño (small, sliced thin, for topping)
• Warm corn (or flour tortillas to serve)
• Tortilla chips (for dipping)

Method

Stage 1 - Soak the beans

1. Place dried beans in a large bowl; cover with 2 litres of cold water.
2. Soak overnight (8+ hours).
3. (Quick-soak alternative: bring beans + water to a boil; boil 2 minutes; off heat; cover; rest 1 hour.)

Stage 2 - Cook the beans

1. Drain the soaked beans; rinse.
2. Place in a deep heavy pot with 2 litres of fresh water.
3. Add halved onion, 6 garlic cloves, bay leaves, epazote (if using) and the pork bone / ham hock (if using).
4. Bring to a boil; skim any foam.
5. Reduce to a low simmer; partially cover.
6. Cook 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, until the beans are very tender (you should be able to crush one easily between fingers).
7. In the last 30 minutes, add the salt.
8. (Pressure cooker: cook on high pressure 30-35 minutes; natural release.)

Stage 3 - Reserve liquid

1. Drain the beans through a sieve set over a large bowl - KEEP the cooking liquid.
2. Discard the bay leaves, onion halves, and pork bone (pull off any meat and reserve).

Stage 4 - Refry stage

1. Heat the lard in a wide heavy pan over medium-high heat.
2. Add the diced onion; fry 7-8 minutes until deeply golden.
3. Add the diced garlic and (optional) jalapeño; cook 1 minute.

Stage 5 - Spice

1. Stir in cumin and oregano; cook 30 seconds.

Stage 6 - Add the beans

1. Tip the cooked drained beans into the pan.
2. Add 200 ml of the reserved cooking liquid.
3. Cook 2 minutes, stirring.

Stage 7 - Mash

1. Mash with a potato masher to a chunky paste - leave some whole beans for texture (smooth puree is the Tex-Mex / commercial style; chunky is traditional Mexican).
2. Cook 8-10 more minutes, stirring frequently, until thick and glossy.
3. Add more bean liquid if the mixture becomes too dry; reduce if too soupy. Final consistency: thick spoonable paste, like very thick porridge.

Stage 8 - Season

1. Taste; adjust salt heavily - refried beans need generous salt.
2. Add black pepper.
3. If using leftover ham hock meat, shred and stir in.

Stage 9 - Serve

1. Tip into a wide bowl.
2. Top with crumbled cotija, chopped coriander and sliced jalapeño.
3. Eat with warm tortillas, or as a side at any Mexican plate.
4. Serve with tortilla chips for dipping if eating as snack.