religious

Eid al-Fitr

The sweet Eid. Sheer khurma, sevaiyan, maamoul, baklava, gulab jamun. The morning after a month of fasting, the table is soft, sweet and short.

15 recipes Muslim world

Eid al-Fitr - the Festival of Breaking the Fast - closes the month of Ramadan with a morning of sweet food. The first proper breakfast in thirty days is not a feast of meat: it is bowls of sweet vermicelli, plates of date cookies, glasses of milky tea and dates from the silver bowl on the side table. The cooking is gentle, family-quiet, gradual.

 

The canonical Eid al-Fitr sweet varies by household: Pakistani and North Indian families serve sheer khurma or sevaiyan (both vermicelli-and-milk preparations, one richer and pudding-like, the other drier and tangled). Levantine households make maamoul, the date-or-pistachio-filled semolina cookies that stack on trays for visiting relatives. Turkish kitchens turn out baklava trays. Everyone serves dates, milky tea, and a slow rotation of small sweet things.

 

Light savoury dishes turn up later - samosas, light biryanis, snacks easy to share when the visiting starts. But the morning belongs to the sweets.

Recipes in this collection

Maamoul

Maamoul

The cookie that arrives in tins at every Middle Eastern festival worth marking, baked for Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Christmas and Easter alike across Lebanese, Syrian, Iraqi and Gulf households. You make a short dough of fine semolina and plain flour with butter, milk and orange blossom water, then let it rest overnight so the semolina hydrates fully and the dough turns silky. Three classic fillings sit alongside: dates pounded with cinnamon and cloves, walnuts mixed with sugar and rose water, pistachios with sugar and a drop more orange blossom. Each cookie wraps a teaspoon of filling, gets pressed into a carved wooden mould (or scored by hand with the back of a knife), then bakes pale gold so the crust stays sandy and the filling stays soft. A dust of icing sugar at the end. Tea or coffee on the side, and a tin kept on the shelf for visitors who haven't yet been told about your batch.

Desserts 1 hour 25 minutes Serves30
Knafeh

Knafeh

A round shallow pan is lined with melted-butter-soaked kataifi (shredded filo), tossed until every strand is gilded. A layer of fresh, lightly salted cheese (akkawi, mozzarella or a blend with ricotta) goes in the middle, then another layer of buttered kataifi on top. Baked hot until the pastry crisps deep golden, then flipped onto a serving plate and drenched in warm sugar syrup scented with orange-blossom water. Scattered with crushed pistachios. Sliced and served while the cheese is still warm and pulling.

Desserts 1 hour Serves8
Kaju Barfi

Kaju Barfi

Cashews soaked briefly to soften, ground to a fine pale powder, then folded into a sugar syrup that's been taken to the right consistency - one-string, which means a thread should form when you pinch a drop between thumb and forefinger and pull them apart. Stirred over a low heat until the mixture pulls cleanly from the pan, then kneaded warm, rolled to 5 mm, cut. Edible silver leaf is the traditional finish; rose petals are the home-cook substitute.

Desserts 40 minutes Serves16
Samosa Pakistani

Samosa Pakistani

Pastry dough: plain flour, ghee, salt, ajwain seeds, and warm water are kneaded into a stiff oil-rich dough; rests for 30 min. Filling: ground beef (or lamb) sautées with onion, garlic, ginger, green chilli and a Pakistani spice blend (garam masala, cumin, coriander, chilli powder, turmeric). Frozen peas join; the mixture simmers dry; cooled fully. Dough divides into 10 balls; each rolls into a thin oval, cut in half to make 2 half-moons. Each half-moon forms a cone (one flat edge becomes the seam, sealed with flour paste). Cone fills with cooled filling. Top edge of cone seals with flour paste. Deep-fried 175°C 3-4 minutes per side until amber-crisp.

Snacks 1 hour 30 minutes Serves6
Dahi Bhalla

Dahi Bhalla

Dried urad dal (white, sometimes labelled "white lentils" or "split urad") soaks overnight, then blends with ginger, green chilli and a small amount of water into a smooth thick batter. Whipped vigorously for 5 minutes to incorporate air (this is what makes the fritters light). Asafoetida and salt season; baking soda activates right before frying. Fritters drop into 175°C oil; fry for 3-4 minutes until amber. Lifted into a wide bowl of lukewarm water; soaked for 10 minutes; squeezed gently between palms to remove most water. Plated in shallow bowls; flooded with sweet salted spiced yogurt; topped with chutneys, chaat masala, pomegranate, fresh coriander, a sprinkle of crushed papri or sev for crunch.

Snacks 45 minutes Serves4
Sindhi Biryani

Sindhi Biryani

Mutton on the bone marinates for 2 hours in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, ground spices (red chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, garam masala), mint, coriander and salt. Sliced onions fry slowly in oil to deep gold, then crispy, and drain on paper (some go in the marinade, some on top of the biryani). The marinated mutton browns; tomatoes go in; the meat braises for 45 minutes until tender. Basmati rice parboils with whole spices and salt to 70% done; drains. The layering: mutton at bottom, half the rice, fried onions and prunes and green chillies, the remaining rice, more onions, saffron-milk and ghee on top. Dum cook for 25 minutes sealed.

Pakistani 4 hours 5 minutes Serves6