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Onion is softened in butter; red cabbage joins along with sliced apple, brown sugar, red wine vinegar, a touch of red wine, cinnamon and cloves. Slow-cooked covered for an hour until the cabbage is silky and the liquid has reduced into a glossy glaze.
Maris Piper potatoes peel and chunk, boil in well-salted water until very tender, drain, return to the hot pan to steam off any moisture. Pass through a ricer or food mill into a clean pan. Cold butter cubes whisk in first; warm milk loosens to the right consistency; salt to taste.
Wholemeal and white flour mixed dry with bicarbonate of soda and salt. Cold buttermilk poured in, stirred briefly with a wooden spoon and then gathered by hand into a rough ball. Patted onto a tray, scored with a deep cross to let it open in the oven, baked hot until the bottom thumps hollow. The cross is partly practical (helping the bread rise evenly), partly a blessing - "letting the fairies out", as the saying goes.
Maris Piper potatoes peel and chunk, parboil in well-salted water until just past the point of holding together, drain, shake aggressively in the colander to fluff up the surface. They go into smoking hot fat in a roasting tin, get turned a few times, and emerge with a crust that holds against gravy.