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Balachaung

Balachaung

The Burmese dried-shrimp relish that sits in a jar in every Yangon kitchen, the seasoning you reach for to lift a plate of plain rice into something memorable. You pulse-grind dried shrimp to a coarse floss, then fry a pile of sliced garlic and shallot in oil until they're deep golden and crisp. The dried shrimp joins them and toasts to a fragrant rust colour. Chilli powder, fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and a splash of water turn the lot into a sticky red-brown relish. Cook until the oil clears (twelve to fifteen minutes), cool, store in a jar. Eat by the spoonful with rice, or as a side to grilled meat or fish.

Sides 40 minutes Serves12
Ensaladang Talong (Grilled Eggplant Salad)

Ensaladang Talong (Grilled Eggplant Salad)

Long Asian aubergines char directly over a gas flame or hot grill until blackened all over and totally soft inside (poke through to test, no resistance). Cool for 10 minutes; peel away the charred skin (it slips off if cooked enough). Tear the flesh into 5 cm strips. Dress with diced tomato, thin-sliced red onion, fish sauce, white-cane vinegar and calamansi juice. Rest for 5 minutes to let the eggplant absorb the dressing. Serve room temperature.

Sides 27 minutes Serves4
Green Curry BBQ Aubergine

Green Curry BBQ Aubergine

This is a BBQ side built on the flavour profile of Thai green curry rather than a Thai curry itself. The marinade is essentially a small batch of green curry sauce reduced down until thick and clinging, then cooled and rubbed into wedges of aubergine that sit in it overnight. By morning the cut surfaces have drunk in coconut, paste, fish sauce, palm sugar, lime leaf and basil; by the time they hit the grill, the flesh has half-pickled and the surface is coated in a paste that caramelises beautifully over hot coals. The grill does the rest. Direct high heat blackens the marinade into sticky-black patches while the inside steams under its own glaze and softens to spoon-tender. Difficulty is low. The only patience involved is overnight in the fridge. Serve as a centrepiece on a BBQ platter alongside grilled meats, or as a vegetarian main with sticky rice, a wedge of lime and a scatter of Thai basil. It is rich, smoky, gently sweet, salty and herbaceous all at once, with the unmistakable green-curry note running through every bite.

Sides 37 minutes Serves4
Kayan Thee Hnut

Kayan Thee Hnut

A Burmese aubergine dish, the kind of thing that turns up on a weekday table next to a simple curry and rice. You cube the aubergine and salt it for twenty minutes to draw out the bitter water, then squeeze it dry. Onion fries dark-gold in oil; garlic, ginger and turmeric go in briefly; then the aubergine joins them and fries for eight minutes until silky-soft and just collapsing. Fish sauce, chilli powder and a touch of palm sugar season the pan, and toasted crushed peanuts scatter over at the end for crunch. Eaten warm with rice and a small piece of fish.

Sides 55 minutes Serves4
Kimchi (Cabbage)

Kimchi (Cabbage)

Napa cabbage quarters and salts in heavy salt water 4 hours; rinses well; drains. A sweet rice-flour porridge cooks briefly and cools. Aromatic paste: garlic, ginger, fish sauce, onion, apple/pear, gochugaru, sugar, pulses smooth, mixes with porridge. Daikon and carrot julienne fine; spring onion slices. Everything tosses with the paste. Cabbage stuffs leaf-by-leaf with the spiced mix. Packs tight in a jar. Ferments at room temperature 1-3 days, then refrigerates.

Sides 5 hours 5 minutes Serves1
Mushy Peas

Mushy Peas

Dried marrowfat peas soak overnight in cold water with bicarbonate of soda (the soda softens the skins; without it the peas stay tough). The peas are drained, rinsed, then simmered slowly in fresh water with a pinch of salt until they break down into a thick green porridge, about 40 minutes. A teaspoon of butter, a pinch more salt and (optionally) a small spoon of mint sauce or chopped fresh mint stir through at the end. Eaten warm. Some chip-shop versions add a teaspoon of sugar; some Yorkshire households add a splash of malt vinegar at the table.

Sides 50 minutes Serves4
Nam Prik Pao

Nam Prik Pao

Dried red chillies are deseeded (most of them), garlic is sliced, shallots are sliced thin. All three fry separately in oil over medium heat until each is deep golden and crispy, sequence matters because they cook at different rates. Dried shrimp toasts briefly in the same oil. Everything pulses in a food processor (or pounds in a mortar, the traditional method) to a coarse paste. Returned to the pan with the residual oil; palm sugar, fish sauce, tamarind paste and a splash of water cook for 10 minutes more, stirring, until the colour deepens to mahogany and the paste is thick and glossy. Once cooled and stored in oil, it lasts weeks.

Sides 45 minutes Serves8
Nga Hpe (Burmese Fish Cakes)

Nga Hpe (Burmese Fish Cakes)

The Burmese fish cakes that arrive at lahpet-thoke salad tables and street snack stalls alike, bright with lime and curry leaf. You cube skinless firm fish fillets and pulse them in a food processor with shallot, garlic, ginger, lime, fish sauce and a small egg into a sticky paste. A spoon of beaten cornflour binds it. Curry leaves, sliced spring onion, chopped cilantro and a fresh chilli go in for fragrance and bite. Patties form by hand (keep your hands slightly damp so the mixture doesn't stick), then shallow-fry in batches at 170°C for two or three minutes per side until they're deep gold and crisp at the edges. Eaten warm with a sour-sweet tamarind dipping sauce.

Sides 45 minutes Serves6
Okra Soup

Okra Soup

Beef parboils briefly with stock cube and onion to make a quick stock. Smoked fish soaks in hot water and is flaked. Fresh okra is chopped very fine (or grated). Palm oil heats; chopped onion, garlic and Scotch bonnet pepper soften. Stock and meat go in; simmers for 5 minutes. Smoked fish, ground crayfish and iru join. Salt to season. Then the okra goes in and cooks just 5 minutes, barely, to keep the bright green colour and the unmistakable slippery thickness. Served over rice or with fufu.

Sides 50 minutes Serves4
Salade Niçoise

Salade Niçoise

Eggs hard-boil; cool; peel; quarter. New potatoes simmer in salted water until tender; drain; halve while warm; toss with a spoon of vinegar. Green beans blanch briefly; cool. Tomatoes wedge (the best you can find). The dressing: red wine vinegar, olive oil, Dijon mustard, crushed garlic, salt and pepper whisks together. Composition on a wide platter: a base of lettuce leaves (optional, traditional purists skip), then arranged piles of each cooked / prepared ingredient, wedges of tomato, halved eggs, halved potatoes, green beans, drained tuna chunks, niçoise olives, anchovy fillets. Drizzled with the dressing. Scattered with basil. Eaten with crusty bread.

Sides 45 minutes Serves4
Sambal Belacan

Sambal Belacan

A bright, punchy raw sambal built around belacan, the fermented Malaysian shrimp paste. The belacan is toasted first to mellow its rawness and bring out its savoury depth, then pounded with fresh red chillies, a little shallot and lime juice. The texture should stay coarse, not smooth, so each spoonful carries flecks of chilli skin and seed. Unlike cooked sambals such as sambal tumis, this one is finished in minutes and meant to be eaten the day it is made.

Sides 13 minutes Serves6
Samusa Thoke

Samusa Thoke

A Yangon street-stall snack and the lunch office workers queue for at midday: broken samosas tossed in a hot yellow-pea soup at the bowl with raw onion, lime and crispy bits. You cook yellow split peas with turmeric and salt into a thick soup, season it with fried sliced onion, garlic, paprika and fish sauce. Small Burmese samosas (filo or thin pastry triangles with a lamb mince filling) are pre-fried or warmed. The construction in the bowl is fast: a heap of broken samosa, a ladle of hot pea soup, a tangle of raw red onion, a small mound of crispy gram-flour bits, chopped cilantro, a wedge of lime, chilli to taste. Toss at the table and eat while everything is hot.

Sides 6 hours Serves4
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