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Soft flour tortillas, thicker than Mexican ones, are griddled until lightly blistered. While still warm, they're spread with hot refried beans, drizzled with mantequilla, sprinkled with salty crumbled cheese, then folded in half. Eaten in hand. Add-ons are layered before the fold. Done in 20 seconds at the stand.
A small quantity of minced mutton and diced onion fries gently in fat. Mutton stock (or water) goes in; the broth simmers for 10 minutes. Plain flour is rubbed with a few drops of water between the palms to make tiny crumb-sized lumps; these scatter into the simmering broth, where they cook for 5 minutes into soft pearls. Salt and pepper to season. A scatter of fresh dill or spring onion finishes the bowl.
Mince browns with onion, garlic, curry powder, ginger and a small chopped chilli; the filling is cooled. Spring-roll pastry strips are folded into triangular pouches around a teaspoon of filling, sealed with a flour-water paste, and deep-fried 170°C until deep gold. Crisp shell, hot savoury inside.
Yellow-corn masarepa hydrates with water, salt and a pinch of paprika for colour. Beef mince cooks with onion, tomato cumin and oregano; cooked potato dices fold in for body. The dough divides; each ball flattens between two pieces of cling film into thin discs; filling goes in the centre; folded into a half-moon, sealed with damp fingers, fried.
The dish is an assembly, not a recipe. The four ingredients (tomato, mozzarella, basil, olive oil) all need to be the best you can afford, that's the whole technique. Tomatoes at peak ripeness, sliced 1 cm thick; mozzarella di bufala torn or sliced fresh from the brine; large whole basil leaves; cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil. Layered on a plate alternating tomato slices with mozzarella, basil leaves tucked between, salt and pepper, finished with olive oil. Eaten with crusty bread.
Lamb mince fries with onion, garlic, ginger and a spice mix of garam masala, cumin, coriander and chilli. Frozen peas thaw into the dry filling at the end; lemon juice and chopped coriander finish it. Left to cool. Spring-roll pastry strips fold around a generous tablespoon of filling into triangular packets (flag-fold) and seal with flour paste. Deep-fried 175°C until deep gold.
A large cabbage core-out, blanched briefly, leaves separated. Filling: short-grain rice mixed raw with beef mince, chopped onion, parsley, dill, mint, dried mint, cumin, allspice, tomato puree, salt, pepper, plenty of olive oil. Each leaf rolls around a tablespoon of filling. Packed tight in a wide pot lined with sliced tomato. Garlic-tomato cooking liquid poured to nearly cover. Weighted with a plate. Cooked covered 1 hour on the lowest heat.
Beef parboils briefly with stock cube and onion to make a quick stock. Smoked fish soaks in hot water and is flaked. Fresh okra is chopped very fine (or grated). Palm oil heats; chopped onion, garlic and Scotch bonnet pepper soften. Stock and meat go in; simmers for 5 minutes. Smoked fish, ground crayfish and iru join. Salt to season. Then the okra goes in and cooks just 5 minutes, barely, to keep the bright green colour and the unmistakable slippery thickness. Served over rice or with fufu.
Lamb mince fries with onion, garlic, cumin, coriander and chilli to a dry savoury filling. Spring-roll pastry sheets are cut into long strips; a teaspoon of cooled filling goes on a corner; the strip folds into a small triangular packet via the flag-fold method. Sealed with flour-water paste; deep-fried 170°C until shatteringly golden. Eaten with a wedge of lemon and sahawiq.