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A food-safe cedar plank submerges in water for an hour. The salmon (skin on, one side) gets a brief dry cure of brown sugar, salt and crushed juniper. Maple syrup and lemon zest go on at the end of the cure. The hot grill cooks the plank from below while the salmon cooks from the slow heat radiating up, a steam-smoke method, neither pure grilling nor pure baking. The result is a salmon that tastes faintly of forest, cured-cured-not-curried.*
Ceviche is a vibrant, no-cook appetizer in which fresh seafood is "cooked" by the acidity of lime juice, taking on a firm, opaque texture while retaining a wonderfully fresh flavour. The addition of mango, citrus segments, and fresh chilli creates a bright, tropical balance of sweet, sharp, and heat.
The Sunday brunch icon, and the dish people learn hollandaise for. You build the sauce first, whisking egg yolks with water and lemon over a bain-marie until they ribbon, then drizzling in warm clarified butter while you whisk steady and even until the bowl holds something glossy and thick. The hollandaise will wait for you in a warm spot while you poach the eggs - vinegar in barely-simmering water, a gentle whirlpool, three minutes for a runny yolk - and toast the muffins, and warm the ham. Then everything stacks at speed: muffin, ham, egg, hollandaise spooned generously over, a scatter of chives. You eat immediately, because every component is at its best within a minute of plating and falls off a cliff after five. Looks fancy on a tablecloth; rewards twenty focused minutes of work.
The British family classic that turns up on a kitchen table on a cold Tuesday night, the one fish dish that even children who hate fish will eat. You poach a mix of fish (cod, smoked haddock, salmon, prawns) briefly in milk - just enough to set the flesh - then strain the milk off and turn it into a parsley-and-cheddar béchamel. The fish goes into a deep dish, the béchamel pours over to bind, and a thick layer of cheddar mash piles on top in rough peaks that catch and crisp in the oven. Bake until the top is golden and the sauce bubbles up around the edges. Eaten with peas or buttered greens, a glass of cold white wine, the kind of meal that turns the evening domestic in the best way.
Thai fishcakes (often called ‘tod mun pla’ on menus) are known for their spongy consistency, which I’m not fond of; that sponginess comes from the egg, so I tend to leave it out. Fishcakes are usually deep-fried in street stalls and restaurants, but I find it much easier to shallow-fry them. These are great served with sweet chilli sauce, Thai seafood dipping sauce and/or cucumber and chilli relish.
Salmon fillets sear skin-side down for crisp skin, then bathe in a quick honey-soy-mirin-ginger reduction that lacquers them. Broccoli or bok choy steams in the same pan with a splash of stock. Twenty minutes; one pan; serve over rice.
Potatoes and onion are coarsely grated; the mixture is squeezed bone-dry in a cloth (this is the difference between great latkes and soggy ones). Egg and matzo meal (or flour) bind; the lot fries in shallow oil over medium-high heat until each side is crisp and deeply golden. Drain and salt; eat hot.
The eight-day Passover diet rests on matzo, and matzo brei is the dish that turns yesterday's plain matzo crackers into a proper hot breakfast. Pieces of matzo go briefly under warm water until they soften (but don't disintegrate), then drain. They get folded into beaten salted eggs, sit a minute so the matzo drinks in the egg, and then go into hot foaming butter. Two finishes: cook flat as a thick pancake and flip, or break up and scramble. Eaten immediately with whichever topping the household votes for.
Short-grain Japanese rice (sushi rice) is rinsed several times until the water runs clear, then cooked with slightly less water than for regular rice (so each grain stays separate-but-sticky). Cooled slightly to warm (not hot, hands burn; not cold, rice doesn't compress). Filling options prepare: umeboshi (sour pickled plum, sold whole or paste); salt-grilled salmon flaked; tinned tuna mixed with mayo and a pinch of soy. Hands wet with water, dust with salt, take a generous handful of rice, press a thumb-dent in the centre, drop a teaspoon of filling, fold the rice over to enclose, press into a triangular shape with the palms. Wrap each ball with a small strip of nori at the base.
Yeasted buckwheat batter rises briefly, then dollops of it cook into small fluffy pancakes on a flat pan. Topped with a small spoon of crème fraîche, a curl of smoked salmon, dill, lemon zest, and a tiny grind of pepper. Perfect with cold champagne.
Skin-on salmon fillets are seared skin-side down to crisp, flipped briefly, then bathed in a four-ingredient teriyaki glaze that reduces to a glossy lacquer. The pan-sear gives texture; the glaze gives shine and savoury sweetness.