Arroz de Pato

Arroz de Pato

Arroz de pato is Portugal's answer to paella, except baked rather than simmered, and the rice picks up a top crust of crisped chouriço at the end. You poach a whole duck for two hours with onion, bay, cloves and lemon peel until the meat falls apart, then strip the meat off the bones and put the bones back to extract another half hour of flavour from the stock. The strained duck stock cooks the rice, the shredded meat folds back in, and the whole thing goes into a baking dish under a layer of paper-thin chouriço slices. Twenty minutes in a hot oven and the top emerges deeply burnished, the chouriço slices crisp at their edges and slick at their centres. Sunday lunch, ideally with a heavy red from the Douro.

Portuguese 3 hours 25 minutes Serves6
Salted Egg Chicken Wings

Salted Egg Chicken Wings

The wings are mild on their own, lightly seasoned with rice wine, soy and white pepper, then dusted in cornstarch and shallow-fried until the skin crackles. The drama is in the second step: crumbled salted duck egg yolks are stirred in hot oil until they foam into a frothy, sandy paste with a pale yellow colour and a smell somewhere between butter, parmesan and salt-cured anchovy. The fried wings go back into that sand and get tossed until each one wears a fine pale crust. The eating experience is genuinely unusual, the salted yolk is intensely savoury, almost umami-heavy, but not fishy or overwhelming like the egg eaten alone. Easy to cook if you can find the salted yolks (Asian grocers stock them whole-egg or yolk-only in vacuum packs); the only real skill is recognising the foaming point so the coating clings instead of burning. The combination originated in Hong Kong dim-sum kitchens in the 1980s and spread through Singapore, Malaysia and modern Chinese restaurants worldwide; it is now common across home kitchens in Sichuan and Guangdong as a snack or beer dish.

Chinese 50 minutes Serves3-4